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          REM picture of Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis. Source


This is my contribution to the Art of Breadmaking project. You can learn more about it HERE

In this livejournal entry I am documenting my experience with the recipe of developing a sourdough starter with lactobacteria san-francisco in 2 days.

The premises for the method


1) Lb sf needs precursors in the dough in order to kick in, to start growing in large numbers. These precursors are lactic bacteria lb pontis, lb plantarum, and lb fermentum. They outcompete other microorgainsms in rye and wheat dough at temperatures above 35C - 37C . So, step one is to create conditions in dough slurry for these do develop.

2) Lb sf grows best at 5-20% inoculation and at  32C (no higher than 32C and no lower than 20C), so the second step in starter development is to feed the culture with fresh dough and maintain it at 32C for the LB SF to grow in large numbers and outcompete other microorganisms in the culture, for Lb sf to become dominant.

3) Wild yeast  grows best at 28C, and high extraction flours are the best sources of wild yeast cells and spores. So the third and the following feedings should be with whole grain rye or whole grain wheat flour and fermentation kept at around 28C to encourage yeast growth.

The suggested maintenance schedule for the starter is to inoculate regularly at 5-20% level, keep culture whole grain based, around 28C. However, Lb SF will remain dominant even at 40% inoculation of wheat doughs, in 25-30C temperature range. So, it is safe to feed your starter in 5-40% inoculation range: 1 part of flour in ripe starter to 2.5-20 parts of flour in fresh dough, kept at 25-30C, preferably in 50-75% hydration range. To increase acidity , oxygenate your starter, preferments, and sourdough regularly - knead it from time to time.

RECIPE
STEP ONE
20g whole rye flour
240g water, 25C
mix, pour into a ziploc bag, close, submerge in warm water. Leave for 18-24h @ 35-40C, ideally at 37C.

STEP TWO
add
100g whole grain wheat flour, or whole grain rye flour (wheat flour is preferable). Close and submerge in warm water. Leave for 18-24H at 30-35C, ideally, 32C.

STEP THREE
take 30g of that soupy mixture, add
100g whole grain wheat flour
45g water
knead until homogeneous, leave for 24 h at 20-30C, preferably at 28C in a closed glass or plastic conteiner.

STEP FOUR and all following
feed the starter once daily in the following manner
4-5g ripe starter
50 g whole grain wheat flour
33g water
knead, leave in an enclosed glass or plastic contener at 20-30C for 24h. To increase acidity, oxygenate regularly: knead it from time to time during fermentation or tear into pieces.


Illustrations

1) mise en place: heating pad from a pharmacy on the lowest heating setting gives about 40C which is ideal for this method.



This method starts with whole grain rye flour, which sometimes FAILS to ferment for unknown reason. To increase chances for success I took 10g of whole grain organic rye flour and 10g of rye flakes, to provide TWO different sources of Lb plantarum, Lb fermentum and Lb pontis in the first mixture.

rye flakes


The first mix of rye with water in a ziploc bag



It sits in warm water on top of heating pad set onto lowest setting, T= 37C

I covered it with linen to create thermos effect, to protect from cold room T in my kitchen at night.


NINE hours later the temperature stayed stable at 37C and the mixture became foamy


20 hrs after the set up I opened the bag to feed the mixture. The stench was almost unbearable - smelled like vomit and rotten corpses in there. So, for those who wonder if this method skips the stinking phase, - NO it doesn't, It makes it worse, LOL. However, it doesn't matter. Along with stinky microbes (in small numbers) we had grown large numbers of good lactic bacteria in that mix.

2) I added to the bag 100g of whole wheat. Again to make sure I had TWO different sources of desirable microorganisms, I used organic whole grain wheat flour and wheat flakes.


To keep this mixture at 32C on a heating pad, it is sufficient to place a soup plate between the heating pad and the warm water vessel in which our starter is fementing

This mixture will also become foamy in a few hours

Eventually, the foaming stops, foam dissolves in water, smell changes from pure vomit to acidic vomit, tastes extremely acidic, vinegary. Mixture after 18h at 32C, ready for the next feeding, the next stage in starter development - yeast propagation at 28C.


pH of this mix is in the range of 4.0-4.2



3) I took 45g water, added 30 g of slurry from the bag, dissolved it all, added whole wheat flour with some cracked wheat and cracked rye grain in it and left it to ferment at 28C for 24hrs. On top of my fridge is a constant T of 28-30C, day and night, any season.


24 hrs later it rose in volume from 150ml to 250ml


Another sample was fed with purely whole wheat flour, it also got going some yeast fermentation in it



I gave it full 36hrs, it was very stiff



I didn't discard the remaining slurry in the  ziploc bag, but fed it bread flour every 8-12 hrs, 1:1 ratio, 150 % hydration, and got another beautiful starter going in 48hrs. Maybe it's a proof that to develop yeast in that starter you don't really need to feed it whole grain flour, after all. But  then it does require a higher number of feedings/ more flour, to get it going.

4) Next I switched to maintenance and testing of the starter. I have fed with 1:20 feeding , stiff form, let ferment for 24 hrs at 28C

whole rye form of starter



this is how whole wheat form of starte it looks at the end of 24h fermentation at 28-30C

during the first hours after feeding it goes through a phase of strong lactic fragrance (like yogurt or kefir), then as it becomes more ripe it smells 'like sourdough', much more complex and bread-like fragrance.

TESTS
I tested the starter for its leavening power. It's supposed to lift white wheat dough with bread consistency or softer (like chiabatta), at least 4-4.5 times in volume in 4-8 hrs of fermentation at 25-27C.

It passed the tests
260g (250ml) of wheat dough inoculated with 10% starter, 90% hydration


6 hrs later at room temperature





I also tested this starter in breadmaking. I baked white bread, 50% rye bread (50% flour is 85% extraction rye, and 50%
 flour is 85% extraction wheat
), and 100% whole rye bread.

White bread was pronounced acidic, not like true san-francisco style, but more than french sourdough
Sponge 10% inoculation, 6hrs at 25C
Dough 70% hydration, 2% salt, 30% flour comes from sponge, improved mixing method, 1hr bulk fermentation at 27C, 15 min bench rest, 2.5hrs proof at 32C. 1 hr bake at 350F.




50% medium rye was perfecition. The best ever. Just the righ acidity and full bodied fragrance.



100% whole rye was not acidic enough (to my taste) but it was the most fragrant rye bread I have ever had honors to sniff. The best. Even as its sponge and then dough were fermenting the fragrance was otherworldly, heavenly. I personally like sharper acidity in black rye. No to the point of being vinegary, but still, more pronounced. I will try oxygenation technique on its sponge and dough next time to see if it helps.


Canadian Pioneer bread, 100 % whole rye with sunflower seeds.



Comments

( 19 comments — Leave a comment )
nosimplex
Feb. 25th, 2013 02:15 am (UTC)
Мне кажется, что это один из лучших результатов последнего времени в части выведения заквасок, к тому же он доступен всем домашним пекарям, как экспериментаторам, так и просто любителям.
Просто удовольствие читать и восторгаться вашим мастерством и энтузиазмом. Спасибо, Люда!
mariana_aga
Feb. 25th, 2013 02:00 pm (UTC)
Мне тоже так кажется :) пожалуйста, Алексей.
nineladi
Feb. 25th, 2013 08:01 am (UTC)
(((( Жаль я не знаю английский хорошо ((( Буду понемногу переводить...
mariana_aga
Feb. 25th, 2013 02:01 pm (UTC)
Все это было написано по-русски в предыдущих статьях (и более подробно)
musa_tv
Feb. 25th, 2013 06:04 pm (UTC)
Захотелось попробовать такую закваску, соберусь с мыслями и силами и поставлю. Спасибо, Люда.
mariana_aga
Feb. 26th, 2013 02:22 am (UTC)
Ну разве чтоб убедиться, что хорошую закваску можно легко и быстро приготовить, Таня, без особых затрат муки и труда. Или чтоб добавить свидетельства про то, как протекает процесс у разных людей по всему миру...

Я свою залила ледяной водой и поставила спать в холодильник. Я силвертоновской изменять не собираюсь.

С этой пока непонятно что делать. Она же не является вечной монокультурой, a la Silverton's starter. она богата разными микроорганизмами и у автора проекта ars pistorica для нас будут наверное какие-то в будущем дополнительные секреты обращения с ней.
musa_tv
Feb. 26th, 2013 06:58 am (UTC)
Я именно в качестве эксперимента, я своей любимой от Нэнси тоже верна:)
(Anonymous)
Mar. 19th, 2013 06:44 am (UTC)
That's exciting. I just started mine, using a small cooler and a heating pad. Your breads look great.

(Pardon the English)
mariana_aga
Mar. 19th, 2013 12:43 pm (UTC)
God-speed!

Your English is better than mine, for sure : )
(Anonymous)
Mar. 19th, 2013 06:29 pm (UTC)
"4) Next I switched to maintenance and testing of the starter. I have fed with 1:20 feeding , stiff form, let ferment for 24 hrs at 28C" One question - 1:20 means what exactly? Is that 1% starter to 20% flour weight or 20% of total dough weight? Thanks.
mariana_aga
Mar. 19th, 2013 08:31 pm (UTC)
1:20 means 1 part flour in ripe starter to 20 parts flour in fresh dough.

for example

if you have 17g of starter made from 10g of flour and 7 g of water,

then you will feed it with 10x20=200g flour and 60-70 g water (enough to make stiff dough)

I. e. as in the recipe above:

STEP FOUR and all following
feed the starter once daily in the following manner
4-5g ripe starter
50 g whole grain wheat flour
33g water

knead, leave in an enclosed glass or plastic container at 20-30C for 24h.

You can feed it 1:20, 1:10, 1:5... all the way down to 1:2.5, it's all good and acceptable for LBSF, but then by the end of 24 hrs your culture possibly won't be in the exponential growth phase.
(Anonymous)
Mar. 20th, 2013 05:45 am (UTC)
Ok, thank you.
ext_1713713
Mar. 22nd, 2013 04:48 pm (UTC)
Mariana, thanks a lot to put into practice the techniques of Ars Pistorica. It helps a lot seeing it and reading it in a simpler, practical fashon.
Saludos
mariana_aga
Mar. 22nd, 2013 05:04 pm (UTC)
De nada, Carlos. De nada. El placer es todo mio.
(Anonymous)
Apr. 10th, 2013 08:00 pm (UTC)
Спасибо. Шаг за шагом,легкость выполнения, да еще и фото - великолепно.
На одном из этапов Вы замеряете кислотность."pH of this mix is in the range of 4.0-4.2" - немного сомневаюсь о реакции пластика (ziploc bag)с кислым тестом.
Очень хочется попробовать, уж больно красивые хлеба у вас получаются.Собираюсь расстаться со своей первой неудачной закваской ( уже пробовала освежать и держать в холодильнике по вашей инструкции).
mariana_aga
Apr. 11th, 2013 12:21 am (UTC)
Пожалуйста!

Пробуйте, конечно. Не обязательно в пластике, можно и в стеклянном стакане или баночке внутри емкости с водой.

Удачи!
ext_1833922
May. 21st, 2013 09:26 am (UTC)
Starter
Thank you for your explanations and photo documentation! I was able to create a very nice sourdough starter with teff flour using this method. It smelled wonderful and had a very nice, rounded-out acid flavor in the bread. Like you I found that the bread was not always acid enough for my taste - or for a bread that's in the style of a 100% rye bread. I did find by accident that if I stressed out my starter by not feeding it until an hour after its schedule, I got more acetic acid flavor, but the starter went "off" in flavor a few days later.

I saw some of your comments on the Ars Pistorica blog and I have some of the same thoughts you do. Is there a way to make the starter a little more flexible in scheduling? I think it can be fed earlier than 24 hours, but it goes off very quickly after 24 hours. Perhaps feeding it a little more flour at a time while still keeping in the ideal inoculation range would help. Since refrigeration isn't suggested perhaps drying the starter would work - that would kind of simulate the conditions that the bacteria and yeast lie dormant in after a grain is ground, so it might work.

Have you found any different approaches to your maintenance schedule? Thanks again for the great blog post - it helped clarify the whole process!
mariana_aga
May. 21st, 2013 01:04 pm (UTC)
Re: Starter
Hi Gina!

I am glad that your starter turned out well. Congratulations!

With regards to acidity, I think it is good to remember that starter is just that - a starter, it is not really bread dough, or any part of it. It only carries bacteria and yeast for the bread dough. So when we maintain a viable starter, we keep feeding it according to the best schedule for STARTER. But when we unoculate with it bread dough (straight dough method) or bread sponge/poolish (2 stage method) then we can aim at different acidities, just like this particular bread requires.

I.e. recipe for starter and its maintenance might require certain flour and certain hydration, and certain acidity and feeding schedule. This way starter per se will never go off.

But recipes for breads using this starter can vary immensely in terms of schedules of fermentation of preferments, inoculated by this starter, and preferement and dough acidity and flavor.

This is no different from yeast, storebought yeast or homemade yeast. Requirements for yeast propagation and maintenance in working condition are different from all yeasted preferments and dough and breads possible later on.

So for more acidic breads with LBSF starter, inoculate preferment with larger portion of starter, say 1:2.5, ferment until desired acidity is achieved, then mix dough, ferment until desired acidity is achieved et voila, you'll have bread as acidic as you wish to have. You can always use aeration trick, it does increase acidity faster than quiet fermentation. I.e. aerate your preferment, mix it during fermentation, especially if it is with non-glutinous material, i.e. mixing/aerating sponge will not destroy gluten irreversibly.

My goal was never to actually bake with Ian's (ars pistorica's) starter. I only tested the method of its creation. i.e I discarded it after that and continued to bake with my absolute favorite - LBSF starter grown using Nancy Silverton's method.

I was interested in what Ian had to say about refrigeration and LBSF, because he hinted that refrigeration is possible, albeit undesirable, in one of his earlier posts. I was actually interested in science of refrigeration. How LBSF reacts to fluctuations in temperature, i.e. what science, experiments have to say about that. He didn't answer, so whatever.

In that sense, I prefer the original recipe for LBSF starter, created by Eric Kayser.
see it on p8 here, Fermentolevain method
http://www.cannelle.com/BILIOTHEQUE/revuetec/PDF/SUPSTn49.pdf

Ian used it to develop his own method. Eric Kayser's starter is basically undistinguishable from Ian's, the only difference is flour extraction: Kayser's starter starts with whole rye and then is fed with white flour. It can be refrigerated in a regular refrigerator (RIPE starter can be kept refrigerated up to 7 days) or (prefereably) slowed down in its fermentation, i.e. ripened at cooler temperatures, which then would require feeding it only once every 2-3 days, if kept at 50-55F (in wine cooler/wine cellar).

Details are here on pp 9-10
http://www.cannelle.com/BILIOTHEQUE/revuetec/PDF/SUPSTn49.pdf

We don't know how the process of drying starter influences the microorganisms. So even though I do dry my starters and they are easily and often quicker restored from dry state than starters refrigerated for up to a week, I cannot be sure that microflora is the same. I.e. different microbes react differently to stress: to drying, to refrigeration, to feeding schedules, etc. All those stresses apply selective pressure to microbes and some survive, while others don't.

Should you dry your LBSF starter, make sure you dry it in RIPE state (past the log phase). You need to have your population of microorganisms in the starter to be in DORMANT stage, i.e. no longer reproducing, before you start drying it.
ext_1833922
May. 21st, 2013 05:06 pm (UTC)
Re: Starter
Hi Mariana! Thanks for the thorough response. I came to the same conclusion about the starter, that it must be kept in its ideal state and additional acidity can be created in the bread dough itself. I am not a very experienced sourdough baker yet, so your instructions on how to acidify the dough will be very useful to me.

I was searching for Eric Kayser's method the other day after I read your mention of him in a comment, but I didn't find it. Thanks for the link!

I think I might try drying a starter once I get a new one going again. I would have assumed I should try to dry it while the bacteria were still in log growth, so again thanks for the tip! You have a lot of technical knowledge and a knack for conveying it simply.

Thank you!
Gina
(Gluten-free Gourmand)
( 19 comments — Leave a comment )

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